Do You Want A Horse Or Pony?

Do you want to get a pony or horse? That's great! For a horsecrazy girl, a horse or pony is a best friend forever. Just be sure to do your homework first because there is a lot that goes into having a horse or pony as a pet. Here are some questions to ask yourself:

Do I have a safe place to keep my pony? Horses need protection in the way of shelter from the weather, such as rain, wind, ice, hot sun, and snow. It's also very important for them to have a place to run freely every day. Some ponies live in a pasture and have a barn or some form of shelter nearby for escaping the weather. If a horse gets wet and then stands in the wind without protection, she can get sick. If you are thinking of keeping your pony in a pasture most of the time, you need at least one acre of land, up to three acres, for your pony to run freely and graze. Large trees within the pasture area would be great so your pony could enjoy the shade on hot days.

What type of fence or barrier will be used to keep your pony inside the pasture? Horses and ponies can be very determined animals. They will try to put their legs and heads right through a fence if they think they can. The type of fencing you use to surround your pasture must be safe for your horse. The fence must be very strong and something the pony will see easily. It can't have anything on it that would cut or injure your pony. Barbed wire must never be used!

One of the best choices for fencing is a heavy-gauge, woven wire mesh material with holes small enough to keep your pony from putting her hoof through by accident. It's a good idea to put a wooden rail along the top of the fence so your pony will see it, even when she is running, so she can stop or turn away without running into the fence.

Another place to keep your pony is in a barn, inside a stall, or box. As long as you have a pen outside for giving them some exercise, a barn is a safe place for your pony to live. If this is the case, you must build a pen, or corral, for her so she has a place to exercise every day. The fence of a pen needs to be very strong since your pony will come into contact with the fence more often. Strong metal pipes or wood are often used to build pens and corrals.

How will I take care of my pony? In addition to the proper living and exercise area, your pony needs a lot of care, so you need to be prepared for what it will take to keep your pony healthy. Here are some things to think about.

Food and water: You must make sure your pony has fresh water every day and a good amount of hay or grass each day. If they are kept in a stall, they must be fed and watered at least two times every day.

Grooming: This is a great way to spend time with your pony and it also helps keep her coat shiny and healthy. Every day grooming would be great, but make sure to always groom her before you ride her so dirt on her coat doesn't get into her skin. You'll need to take care of her coat, mane, tail, hooves, and sometimes trim certain areas on her head.

Mucking her stall: This is very important for keeping her hooves healthy. If your pony is kept in a stall, you'll need to clean her stall every day. Did you know that the average pony will produce several gallons of urine and 15 pounds of manure every day? Your pony could get sick if she has to stand in that all day long.

Check for illness or injuries: Your pony needs to be checked every day for possible injuries or illness.

Training: You'll need to spend time each day training your pony so she will be a good riding horse and safe to be around.

Hoof cleaning: All four hooves will need to be cleaned out each day.

Exercise: If your pony is kept inside a stall most of the day, she will need to be exercised in her pen or allowed to run freely in a fenced-in pasture every day.

As you can see, having a horse or pony is a big commitment! After school, you should allow an average of two hours every day to care for your pony. Other costs to consider are veterinary bills, farrier costs and buying her tack. Owning a pony can be fun and rewarding, but just be prepared for working hard, too, in order to keep her happy and healthy.

Sydney Rose is a nine-year old girl who is crazy about ponies and horses. Together with her mom, she has created http://www.HorseCrazyGirls.com a fun and safe place for girls to find online horse games and printables, share horse and pony names pictures, and lots more. She is hoping to get a pony or horse for her tenth birthday.

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Pony Breeds

Looking for the perfect pony? Who isn't? Good ponies-those who can teach kids the ropes when it comes to horsemanship-are said to be worth their weight in gold.

What exactly is a pony, by definition? How does it differ from what we call a horse? Well, a pony is, in fact, a horse. Ponies are a sub-classification of light horses, which are those used for riding. The main difference between a pony and a horse is that a pony is under 14.2 hands. To this end, just about any horse who meets the height requirement can be shown in pony classes. However, there are certain breeds where all the individuals registered must meet pony requirements. These are called pony breeds.

Like other horse breeds, pony breeds vary in size, color, and gait.

Shetland

While this breed originated in the British Isles, it is now quite popular here in the United States. The Shetland has the distinction of being the smallest of the ponies. While it is certainly possible to learn to ride on a well-trained Shetland pony, their small stature means they are quickly outgrown. They also have a fairly bumpy gait, which makes them not so ideal for riding. But don't worry, American Shetland ponies have certainly found their niche! As very fancy driving ponies, you can usually find them pulling carts, carriages and buggies. One of the best things about Shetland ponies is that they are able to grow really thick winter coats. To this end, they are ideal ponies for people in cold climates. According to breed standards, Shetlands can be any color, including multicolored patterns such as the Paint horse.

Welsh

Welsh ponies originated in a part of Great Britain known as Wales. Welsh ponies are considered among the best of the riding ponies, and are known for their smooth gaits and tractable, willing natures. According to breed rules they come in four sizes, which range from 12 to 15 hands. But wait, you say, doesn't a pony have to be under 14.2 hands in order to be classified as a pony? Good catch! In fact, three of the sizes are actually pony sizes. Horses of the largest Welsh size are considered "cobs," or small horses. A cob can be just about perfect for a rider who has outgrown their pony, but is still too small for a horse. Because of this the versatile Welsh pony breed is not only ideal for children, but many adults on the small side have enjoyed Welsh cobs as well!

POA

POA stands for Pony of the Americas. This breed was founded in the United States in 1956. Original POAs were developed by cross-breeding Shetland Ponies with Appaloosa horses, as well as Quarter Horses and Arabians. POAs share the breed characteristics of their founding stock, and range in height from 11.2 hands to 13.2 hands. Because of their Appaloosa heritage, they come in a wide variety of coat patterns. POAs work well for both riding and driving.

Connemara

The Connemara is an Irish pony that has Arabian horses in its ancestry. Connemaras are known for being one of the taller pony breeds, as many of them stand in the 14.2-hand range. Connemaras are often gray or black, although registry rules also allow them to be brown, bay, or dun. Connemaras have very smooth gaits, are willing learners, and are often very athletic. They excel in a wide variety of disciplines, from riding to driving, and are well-suited to both children and driving adults.

When looking at ponies, there are several breeds from which to choose. Knowing certain breed characteristics will help you determine if the pony you are looking at is a good representative of his breed. Good luck finding the perfect pony!

Ponies are great! If you want to share your pony experiences please visit our resource boxes below and we would love to have you as part of our equine community.

Ron Petracek was raised in Southern Idaho, with a black morgan as his adventure companion. His Love for horses has expanded into the largest equine classified network on the internet to date with horse articles, classifieds and social networking.

Amazing Equine Network System - Buy Sell or trade anything equine related. Get More Horse Classified coverage and distribution with less cost and work.

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First Time Buyer - Parents Guide To Buying A Pony

The best advise I can give any parent thinking about buying a horse or pony for their child is "Do your research!" It's crucial to find the right match for your family. Not every horse or pony will meet your child's needs, financial budget and the family's time schedule.

When looking for a horse or pony parents need to consider whether to buy, lease, or half lease. When buying a horse or pony, parents (not children) are taking full responsibility. The first issue is shelter. Where is the horse or pony going to live? Is there adequate space on the property, is there time to feed twice a day, muck out stalls, turnout and bring the horse or pony in at night? If you decide to lease or half lease a horse, the parents don't own the horse and therefore are bound by the terms and conditions of the contract between parents and the owner. These conditions can vary greatly depending on how much involvement is required by either party.

No matter if the parents decide to buy or lease they need to look for a horse or pony that is safe and respectful of the child. Cool-horses like Quarter Horses and Appaloosas are known for their mellow demeanor and quiet temperament. They can be used for most disciplines in the equestrian world and the child will not out grow a horse like they would with a pony. When looking for a pony be aware of any nasty habits. Because of the small size of a pony, they don't always have proper training under saddle. Even though ponies may be wonderful in hand, they often could have vices when ridden.

The last major thing for parents to consider when buying a horse or pony for their child is - time and money. Can the family commit as many hours that is needed to take care of a horse or pony. Along with riding, there has to be time for feeding, tack cleaning, turn out, mucking stalls and the list goes on! Horses and ponies are expensive! Be prepared to set aside about $1200 a month for a year. If you can afford this and prepared to commit to the many factors involved in owning a horse, your family is ready for a horse or pony.

Janis Macintyre is a mother of two who has been horses her entire life. From pony club as a girl to owning and training three horses as an adult, Janis loves horses and shares her experiences on her site. For more articles like this please visit http://healthyhorsecare.blogspot.com

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Buying A Pony - Without Being Taken For A Ride.

So you think you have found the ideal pony or horse? Before you hand over your hard-earned cash, wait a minute... What can you do to make sure you don`t have an unpleasant surprise in a week or two`s time?

Don`t buy a horse unseen. Go and ride it. Check its competition records, if appropriate. Make sure it can do what you want. Take your trainer, or a knowledgeable horsey friend, along with you to give an impartial opinion. Only when you are satisfied that the horse is capable of doing the job, should you consider getting it vetted.

How do you choose a veterinarian to examine the horse for you? There is a lot to be said for having your own vet carry out the examination. If you are buying a horse that is too far away for your own vet, ask him or her to recommend someone nearer. Although you might prefer not to use the owner`s own vets, remember that they may be the only ones in the area who do horse work.

Either way, make sure you talk to the examining veterinarian to discuss your requirements before the examination.

What happens at a vetting? Although there are slight variations in technique between veterinarians, the procedure is fairly standardized.

The first stage is an examination in the stable. The vet will make a note of any abnormalities - from minor blemishes to signs of disease or previous injury. He or she will listen to the heart and lungs and inspect the eyes with an ophthalmoscope.

Next comes the walk and trot up stage. The horse is watched moving on a flat surface to look for signs of lameness or abnormal gait. By flexing the limbs before trotting the horse, the vet can make some subtle signs of lameness more obvious.

Then there is a period of strenuous exercise. This gives the opportunity to check that the horse does not have any breathing difficulties, and that exercise does not stir up a lameness that was not apparent at rest. It also puts the heart under pressure and may reveal abnormal murmurs or rhythms.

A short period of rest follows, to check that the heart and lungs recover normally after exercise. To finish there is a final trot up and foot examination.

Then the vet has to consider all the abnormalities that the examination has revealed, and assess whether they will interfere with the horse`s intended use.

A full examination can take about an hour and a half. A shorter "two stage" vetting is sometimes requested. Obviously this costs less but it is probably a false economy. Many problems are only spotted in the full five stage examination.

It is often a good idea to be present when the horse is vetted. You can then discuss any concerns you have with the vet at the time.

Specialized tests such as radiography or endoscopy do not usually form part of the pre-purchase examination. Some insurance companies insist on routine x-ray examinations for more expensive horses. Most veterinarians take a blood sample to test for the presence of any medication that could have affected the examination.

Buying a horse is a risky business. No horse is completely risk free. Neither is it possible to accurately predict a horse`s future health. But by having your horse vetted you should ensure that you are off to the best possible start.

Copyright 2006 by Mark Andrews / Equine Science Update. This article may be freely used by newsletters and web sites without permission as long as the copyright notice, links and contact information remain unchanged. Mark Andrews, an experienced equine veterinarian, is author of The Foaling Guide, (http://www.thefoalingguide.com) and publisher of Equine Science Update. For the latest information in equine science, subscribe to the free newsletter from Equine Science Update. (http://www.equinescienceupdate.co.uk)

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Choosing The Best Beginner Horse For Your Child

Every little girl and boy who takes horseback riding lessons from me wants his or her own horse. Sometimes their parents are amenable to such an investment, and sometimes they are not, but if you think you might like to buy a beginner horse for your child, it's important to think this decision through. Too often, I see parents run out and buy the first pretty piece of horseflesh they find, only to discover later that is was the wrong choice.

For one thing, most parents of horse-crazy kids aren't very knowledgeable about horses in general. They don't know how to safely shop for horses, and they don't know what qualities to seek out. Consequently, they come home with a dangerous or ill-mannered or incapable horse that send their child home in tears every night. To avoid this, it is important to follow a few guidelines for selecting an appropriate beginner horse.

1- Get Advice

Reading this article is a great first step toward choosing the best beginner horse for your child, but you need more than words on paper if you don't know the first thing about equines. A trainer, instructor or equine professional can make your buying experience much more pleasant, and you're far more likely to choose an appropriate animal. In most cases, the trainer at your barn will be more than happy to assist you, but may charge a commission fee for their time.

Even if you don't know a qualified individual, however, there is guaranteed to be someone in your city who knows about horses. Look through the Yellow Pages under "Riding Academies" or "Stables" to find equestrian facilities near you, then contact the owner to see if he or she can help. Again, you might have to pay a small commission, but it's worth it in the long run.

2- Buy Close to Home

It is sometimes beneficial for an experienced equestrian to look for horses across the country, or even on the other side of the world. When you're buying a beginner horse for your child, however, look in a small radius, and don't buy a horse you can't visit beforehand. Not only will this give you an opportunity to "try out" the horse before purchase, but it is a lot harder to get scammed by someone who lives virtually in your own backyard.

Additionally, you might also try to buy from someone you know, or based on a referral from a friend or family member. Working with people you know and trust will take much of the stress out of buying a horse, and you're almost guaranteed to get what you asked for. Unfortunately, the scams in this country aren't limited to credit card fraud and identity theft; they also extend to the equine industry.

3- Ride More than Once

You should never buy a beginner horse for your child without riding it first, but I advise at least two or three rides before you offer up a check on a silver platter. One ride might be stellar, but your child might discover in subsequent rides that the horse is harder to handle than he or she previously thought. Other issues, such as lamenesses or bad habits, can surface after "meeting" the horse several times.

In fact, I recommend putting a down payment on the horse and taking it to your barn for a week to "try out" before paying for it entirely. Most reputable horse dealers are more than happy to accommodate this request, and it simply adds another layer of security to the process. Generally, you'll need to give the seller at least 50% good-faith deposit before you take the horse from their property, and you'll need to return the horse in seven days if you don't intend to buy.

4- Conduct a Vet Check

Just because your trainer says that a beginner horse is the perfect one for your child doesn't mean that this should be the end of the road. Horses, like people, are susceptible to injuries and illnesses that often don't materialize for months or years. A thorough examination by a veterinarian will turn up things like navicular changes and parasites. Have your veterinarian conduct this examination (called a vet check) prior to buying the horse.

If you've driven far to buy the animal, however, you can always write a check contingent on a clear vet check. This needs to be placed in writing so that you can return the horse if there are any significant health problems uncovered by the veterinarian.

5- Pay Attention to Demeanor

Unscrupulous horse dealers will actually drug a horse before showing it to potential buyers, creating an extremely dangerous situation. When you're buying a beginner horse for your child, you want an animal that won't try to hurt anyone, and drugs can make the feistiest, wildest, most unmanageable horse seem like a school pony. Therefore, horses who are overly lethargic or dull-eyed should raise a red flag.

If you think that something "just isn't right", don't buy the horse until you've called out a vet. After the vet check, ride the horse again to make sure that he wasn't drugged the first time you tried him.

Laura Thompson is a freelance writer and equestrian consultant from Houston, Texas. She provides assistance to equestrian professionals who want to enter or who currently work in the equestrian industry, and also conducts clinics and seminars in Texas and surrounding states. Her web site, MICA21.com, provides not only information about her services, but also free resources for equestrian professionals.

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Choosing The Right Pony

Parents Guide To Buying A Pony

So, your little girl has been taking riding lessons for a year now and
(surprise) she wants her own pony. Here’s how to begin.

First, talk to your child’s trainer. He or she may have an experienced
lesson horse they would be willing to lease to you. That’s a good way to
get your feet wet before you commit to the full-time obligation of caring
for your own pony. Leasing arrangements vary, but usually you pay a
monthly fee for riding privileges any time you want, as if it were your
pony. You can ride, train and show the pony. You may also have to pay
for farrier services (usually a hoof trim and/or reset shoes every six
weeks), periodic de-worming and veterinary services.

If you can’t find a suitable leasing arrangement and are still interested in
owning a pony, here are some tips and things to consider along the
way.

1. What age do you want your pony or horse? An ideal age for a
beginner rider horse is 10. You can go a little younger, if you want, but a
well-trained 10-year-old horse has already experienced a lot of life. He
probably won’t be as frisky as a younger horse and will be less likely to
spook or act unpredictably. You are looking for a "bomb-proof" horse,
especially for your child’s first mount. Ten years old is great, as well,
because as your child grows, the horse will have many healthy years
ahead of him for riding and showing.

2. What gender should your pony be? Common experience tells us that
geldings are the best beginner mount, however, some mares can be
excellent babysitters as well. The main drawback to a mare is that some
get moody during their monthly cycles, and can even nip or kick. The
other consideration is if you are ever going to have additional horses
and plan to turn them out in a pasture together, it’s better not to have
one mare and several geldings. Even though they are gelded, the males
will still want to fight over the mare. You can avoid that headache by
sticking with geldings. However, if you plan to always keep your horse in
a stall in a stable with individual turnout, a mare can work out fine. Of
course, a first-time owner should never buy a stallion.

3. Do you want a horse or pony? A small horse may be a better option
than a pony for several reasons. First, your little one is going to grow up
and may be faced in the future with having to sell her beloved pony
because she's outgrown him or her.

Second, horses are a little easier to care for. Ponies are famous for
foundering, a condition that occurs especially when a pony overeats rich
grass. The safest bet for a pony is to never let him eat grass. Feed hay, a
little grain and turn him out on dirt. Horses can founder as well, but not
as easily as ponies.

If you have a pasture-only boarding situation, opt for a horse, not a pony.
Some stables, however, have many ponies they turn out together on dirt.
If your barn is set up to care properly for a pony, go ahead, if not, stick
with a horse.

3. Look in the newspaper, on the internet, ask around at horse shows or
call other trainers. Many trainers will help you find the perfect horse for a
finder’s fee. It can be more expensive, but well worth it in the long run to
have professional assistance. Taking along a trainer to look at a horse
with you can give you confidence as well as an expert set of eyes and
ears in the situation.

4. Once you have a prospect located, find out as much as you can about
the horse or pony. What is its training or background? Has it showed
and where? Does it have any bad habits or fears? Is it friendly toward
other horses? Does it load in a trailer and can I do it myself? Does it or
has it ever had any health problems? Why are you selling now?

5. Get a veterinarian check before you buy. This can cost up to $200, if it
includes x-rays, but it can be well worth the expense and trouble.
Coming home with a horse that immediately is lame can be a big
disappointment. Consider the possibility, too, that the current owner may
be giving the horse bute (horse aspirin) to hide lameness when you are
looking at the horse.

6. Check out the horse unannounced. Show up at the horse’s stables or
pasture when you are not expected. Ask to take the horse for a ride or to
trot him on the lead rope to check for problems. Unfortunately, some
people drug their horses to make them appear more calm than they
really are. Arriving unannounced helps you see the pony as he really is.

7. Get ready for expenses. Make sure you understand and budget for all
the expenses associated with owning a horse or pony. There are
monthly boarding bills, which include food and care. You may also want
to supplement your horse or pony with a hoof, coat or joint supplement.
Your horse needs its hooves trimmed or shoes reset every six weeks.
You also need an annual check from the veterinarian, which at least will
include shots, teeth floating and a coggins test. Many owners give their
horses twice yearly shots, as well as de-worming at least four times a
year.

Of course, now there are expenses for saddles, blankets, bridles, bits,
riding clothes, lessons, helmets, riding lessons and showing fees. If your
trainer will transport your horse for you, great, if not, add a horse trailer
to the list.

Finding the right horse or pony can be a long adventure. Don’t be
tempted to pick one out of the paper and surprise your child with it at a
birthday party. Considering the investment on your part, you want your
child to fall in love with this animal, so his or her opinion needs to count
as well. Finding the right equine companion for your child can begin a
relationship that will last for years.

Diane Samson is a writer with The Lieurance Group, a freelance writers' cooperative in Kansas City, Missouri. Samson can provide writing, reporting and editing services for magazines, newspapers, corporate communications and especially animal publications. Find out more about her writing services at http://www.lieurancegroup.blogspot.com or email her at dianesamson@birch.net

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